Germany 1991 (September to October)

ONE KILOMETER = 5/8 MILE

Tuesday, Sept 10 - 615 am SF Pan Am 42 --> (LA) 7:05, 8:45 (LA) --> Miami 1:30 / 4:30
Wednesday Sept 11 - 3:35 / 6:35 --> London 8:10 am (12: 10) = Eight hours fifteen minutes.
Sleep until about 8, 8:30 PT = 4:30. Dinner at Charlotte Restaurant. Walk: Hampstead Heath.
Charlotte Restaurant B&B, West Hampstead - (011-44) 071 / 794-6476 - 25 pounds for 2. (ca $45)
(Carlisle & Dean: Trusha)
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Theresa Chris 071-289-0653
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EXCHANGE RATE: $100 = 54.67 pounds / 1 pound = $1.829
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Thursday Sept 12 - London's first gray days after two months of sun.
Victoria & Albert Museum gift shop ---> Jermyn St 89: J. Floris perfumes.
Burlington Arcade (Penhaligon's perfumes) at Bond St & Brook St ---> Oxford St (HMV Shop - 363; Virgin Megastore 14/16) - much touristy junk, especially north of Soho.
(Tower - Piccadilly Circus). British Museum. (Vinyl Experience - 20 Hanway St.).
Dinner: Kramps Creperie , 6 Kenway Road, at Earl's Court Road - STARRED - 15 pounds for 2.
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Friday Sept 13 -
Kensington High St: Kensington Market, HyperMarket, Dillons books. (Ealing Commons.)
Covent Garden: Neal St, Monmouth. London Ecology Centre - Shelton Street. Beadstore. Stanfords maps. Walk: Bank to St. Paul's.
Walk: Holborn to Inns of Court, Strand to Charing Cross.
Caravela Portuguese, 39 Beauchamp Pl. (Chelsea) $$33.70 for 2 (add $5 cover charge!)
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Saturday Sept 14 -
Portobello Road / Plastic Passion records, 2 Blenheim Crescent.
Camden Lock - canal.
Hampstead Heath walk to Spaniards Inn.
Andrea's Greek Restaurant, 22 Charlotte St, Soho (ok) - 18 pounds for 2.
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Sunday Sept 15 -
4:45 taxi, 5:30 train, 6:00! South Terminal.
8:30 am Gatwick TWA 732
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---> Frankfurt 10:30 (11:30 London, one hour lost) - lousy airport.
EXCHANGE RATE: $1 = 1.65 DM
Rental car: VW Golf - $553.70 (3 weeks)
HESSE:
A3 to Aschaffenberg --> north through Spessart Nature Park --> Steinau --> (Fulda) --> Hunfeld (rested, bought drink) --> Alsfeld:
Greek: Alsfelder Bier, Tarama salata, Tzatziki, "Gyros" without pita. Tasty & good price. 24.50 DM for 2
Hotel Schwalbennest, Pfarrwilsenweg 14 (first hotel they sent us to) - 120 DM!! for 2. (about $73 for 2)
RADIO: FM 98.7 Frankfurt = English news, 89.3
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Monday Sept 16 -
nice Fruchstacksbuffet.
GRIMM'S FAIRY TALE ROAD: Ziegenham --> Kassel (big city): Wilhelmshohe (park, nice river) --> Munden ("best restored", on the two rivers): lunch (sauage, fries, Pilsner) [first photos] --> Sababurg (castle) & animal park --> (Bad Karlshafen - French Huegenot houses)
--> Hameln (restored center): Balkan Grill (Altstadt) [oxtail soup (Ochsenwanzsuppe) Sarma, stuffed cabbage; Satarasch [STARRED]; Palatschinken mit Zitrone [pancake]; Slivovitz) - very good & good price. 30.30 DM for 2
Hotel Hirschman, Deister allee 16 - 105 DM! for 2 - very near underpass to old town. Rain.

Satarasch: scharf deftige Gemüsepfanne mit Streifen vom Schweinenacken mit Ei vermengt, dazu Djuwetschreis = sharply deftige vegetable pan with strips of the pig neck with egg blends, in addition Djuwetschreis - http://www.croatia-rinteln.de/willkommen/spezialitaeten/auswahl/index.html
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Tuesday Sept 17 - NORTH TO KIEL:
(Lüneburg - drove through nice old center) --- lunch stop by Elbe ---> Kiel.
Park: Furst Baum Scholle.
Matjes (mit Zwiebein und Apfeln in Sahnes sauce, Bratkarto ffein) - nice herring. 24.90 DM
Gebackener Schafskäse, Preiselbeeren (cheese, fried - French)
Berliner Hof, Ringstrasse 6, Kiel - 0431 / 62050 - Yom Kippur
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156.9 DM/liter - (46.22 liters) - 636 km/tankful.
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Wednesday Sept 18 -KIEL - Yom Kippur -
Botanic Garden - Universitat - very nice.
STARRED: Freilicht museum - old peasant farm houses. The Schleswig-Holstein Open Air Museum (Schleswig-Holsteinisches Freilichtmuseum)
STARRED: Duppel 88 - Duppelstrasse 88 - 80-30-04 --- 41 DM
STARRED: Franzosische Zweibelsuppe mit Parmesan uberbacken (Onion Soup)
STARRED: Ruhrei mit Krabben (Omelet with shrimp) + aufhausgebackerenem Brot - great bread
STARRED: Frische Champignons, rosé + mit creme fraiche und Kase + uterbacken, warmes Brot
STARRED: Arsterwasser (Beer & lemon)
(Kiel)
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Thursday Sept 19 - KIEL
STORE = Geschäft, Laden, Lager, Magazin, Speicher, Vorrat, Menge
shoe stores: Berkemans #628, $74.85 with tax
currant and gooseberry seeds
Strander Yacht Club - locals specialties buffet - 100 DM
(Kiel)
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Friday Sept 20 - KIEL
(Botanic Garden sites)
read Actuel & wrote
Forst Baumschulle (again): Kartoffelsuppe (potato soup), Schweine Steak - good
Party: rote gruse
(Kiel)
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Saturday Sept 21 -
-----> Hamburg -----> Bremen -----> Central Station - Tourist Information
522 km - 66 DM @150.9/liter - 43.74 liters
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Amsterdam: Casa 400 - James Watt straat 75
EXCHANGE RATE: $1 = 1.8f (guilders) so $100 = 180f
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Sunday Sept 22 -
---> Amsterdam
rain: walk, cafe in Leidesplein, walk
STARRED: The Pancake Bakery: French Onion Soup with old Dutch Cheese, Pancake with advokaat (egg liqueur), pears, whipped cream
Walk to Dam Square & Nieuwmarkt, then to Ryksmuseum & edge of Vondel Park
Rum Runners, Prinsengracht 277: Asapao (stew), Pan de Pina (corn bread with fruit and raisins) - nice food , great band "Dinga" / Pinga? - 50.50f
D'Amsterdam Hotel - 4 Tweede Helmerstraat - 112f, 99f following nights.
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Monday Sept 23 -
(rainy)
--> (Monnickendam) on Marken peninsula, part of suburb now
--> Volendam
--> walked around Edam - photos (starting with flower garden)
--> Hoorn - old port city
--> Enkhuizen: Zuider Zee museum
--> The Afsluitdjk - dam
-------> (tip of bulbs area, Haarlem): Hilleglom, (Lisse)
Sama Sebo - 27 P.C. Hoofstradt: Blackberry Genever, Nasi Goreng, Sates - good but too many Americans
Rain.
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Tuesday Sept 24 - rainy -
Ryksmuseum Van Gogh (rip off)
Flower market - Singel canal at Spui
Jordaan: walk - frites!
Engel- Straat: figures on houseboat +
5:00 Boat Tour - 1 1/2 hour
from Stadhouderskade, across from Park Hotel
Cafe Hoppe, on Spui: Krick Bier (cherry flavor) STARRED, Citroen Genever
photograph of cat: Ruinstradt
Bombay Inn - Lange Leidsed warestr. 46
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Wednesday Sept 25 - rainy -
Car radio stolen ("last two years every night")
--- [Vecht River] ---> Utrecht --> Arnhem: De Hoge Veluwe Park & Kroller-Muller museum
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-------> Germany: Essen: Margaretenhohe - photos
Velbert: Hotel-Restaurant Hohenzollern - Stube (nice old couple) - 98 DM
Tante Maria Restaurant: Ochsenshwanzsuppe, Spaghetti Carbonara, Taliatelle con Funghi + STARRED: Malz bier - 31 DM
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Thursday Sept 26 - rainy -
(Wuppertal) (around Köln)
STARRED: Ahr River: Atenahr!
---> Trier (wine center): up the Mosel River ---> ___ Cochem: castle
-----> cut over to Rhine River at Boppern
German restaurant: Gypsy Steak, Johannesbeeresaft / Sauerbraten - 32 DM
Egarter (?) Motel - 104 DM
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Friday Sept 27 - FALL COLORS
nice Fruhstuck
Rhine River - north, then south - clearer
(Marksburg - castle)
---> Rheingau ---> Frankfurt: exchange car
---> sun: STARRED: Darmstadt: Mathildenhöhe museum
------> Heidelberg: Perkeo - 23.75 DM
Tomatenkremsuppe mit Reis und sahnetupfer
Perkeo-Grulteller, verschiedene Medaillons, wurstehen, Speck und Krauterbutter
Weinschorle (herb) Diebels Alt, Wiener Apfelstrudl
Rose Hotel - Karlsruhr Str. 93 (out of town a bit) - 98 DM
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Saturday Sept 28 - rainy
nice muesli
Marktplatz: fair
---> Neckar Valley - Bad Wimpfen
---> Tubingen ------- down through mountains ---->
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EXCHANGE RATE: $1 = 5.45F
Alsace: Strasbourg
Royal Saigon restaurant
tourist office: very good
Hotel Lutetia - 2 bis, rue General Rapp - 230F for 2 ($42)
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Sunday Sept 29
Salon de Thé
Route du Vin ----> (Ht-Koenigsburg - photo of forest)
Ribeauville (Le Ribeau restaurant - Tartes Flambée, Vin: Entz?lau
Riquewahr
Crepes & quiche & onion soup - 144F for 2
Au Dolder hotel - 236F
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Monday Sept 30
---> Colmar ---> Ungersheim (A35 - Enshisheim exit): Eco museum
---> Mullhouse: National Automobile Museum
Textile museum (eh)
Railroad museum
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---> Freiburg
Schwabische Maulta Sohen - 44 DM dinner
abgeschmelzt
Hirsch goulash mit Preiselbeeren Spatzle
Britzinger Muller-Thurgau Weingut Loffler 1989 - nice: young, light, fruity
Gasthof Goldener Sternen (restaurant) - 80 DM
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Tuesday Oct 1
Black Forest (views: Fahl Valley)
---> Mainau (near Konstanz)
Ferry: Lake Constance / Bodensee
Meersburg: castle (altes schloss)
Lindau
Montfort-Schlossle - outside town - Streitelsfinger 38 - 72922 - 76 DM
Restaurant: Burgurliches Brauhaus (old city) - 36.40 DM
Must/Most = new wine
Spinat Strudel: Spinat mit Eierscheible (mushrooms) im Fladle versteckt und alls zam mit Käs uberbacke.
Schwabische Gemalde: Fleischkuchle mt Schwammeil rahm a garnierte Maultasche, Buabespitzle, Krautspatzle und grunder salat
Bier: Schwarzer Burger (dunkles Hefeweizenbier)
Apfelsaftschorle
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Wednesday Oct 2
RADIO: 102.1 English, out of Vienna "103._"
Bit of the Austrian Alps
Germany: Lechsfall
(Neuschwanstein)
---> Oberammergau: lunch, shoes
---> Ettal: liqueurs, bakery
(Murnau) [madhouse tourist information in train station]
---> Augustiner Bierhalle, Herzogspitalstrasse (next to #16, or Neuhauser Str.):
matjes filet, local sausage plate, Augustiner hell & Edelstoff - 47.90 DM
Munich: Luna Pension (no hot water) - 85 DM
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Thursday Oct 3
Drove around Munich (holiday)
--- 133 km --->
Berechtesgaden National Park: Köningsee - boat
----------> (Kehlstein)
hotel search
(Freilassing: Weisbrau brauerai)
Risotto, Leberknodelsuppe, Weisbrau bier - 21.90 DM
75 DM hotel
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Friday Oct 4
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---> Austria --> A1 (toward Linz) --> Wels -->
Danube River: picnic
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---> Passau
---> Regensburg: walk altstadt
---> ROTHENBURG OB DER TAUBER
Rothenburg Tourist Office, 5:55 pm: "all full" - but just outside (down 25): Gasthof Reichsafel (nice old couple)
Gasthof Glocke - Schmied gasse - at the Plonlein
STARRED: Wein probë
STARRED: Frankische Weinsuppe mit feinen Gemüsen
Kassler Rippchen (yuch - dry pork chop) auf Süß saurem Linsengemusl
Forellenfilet wacholder geräruchert Sahnemeerrettich
STARRED: Puppet show
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Saturday Oct 5
ROTHENBURG OB DER TAUBER
Lunch: hot homemade sausage at Gasthof Glocke (again) + karoffeln & sauerkraut
2:30 Dance
(Dinkelsbuhl)
Glocke (third time)
STARRED: Auslese wine
Ein Kälte Teller mit Hausgemacht Wurst
Frankische Weinsuppe (again)
STARRED: "Winter Salat" - grapes, bacon,poached egg
(Rothenburg) - hotel 120 DM for 2 for 2 nights
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Sunday Oct 6
Frankfurt
STARRED: Museum fur Volkerkunde
Museum fur Kunst handwerk
STARRED: Museum fur Film
Adolf Wagner's, 71 Schwertzergasse - nice: Apfelwein u. Apfelsaft, Bratwurst, 1/2 Hänchen
Schuman Hotel, 50 Taunustrasse (next to train station + noisy & no curtains - yuch) - 88 DM
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Monday Oct 7
9:30 am Pan Am 67 ---> NY 1:05, NY 5:45 ---> SF 9:00

NEXT TIME:
Lübeck & Ratzeburg [north coast, Schleswig-Holstein]
Konstanz [at Danish border isthmus]
Langeland Island, Denmark]

"Gemutlich"
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FUTURE NOTES:
GARDENS:
n & w of Cologne:
Bad Aachen - Rhine - Westphalian School of Technology - natives
Wuppertal
Hesse: Darmstadt
Frankfurt am Main, Siesmayerstrasse 72 (Johann Wolfgang Goethe U) - areas of European plantings
& Goldstein Demonstration Garden: vegetables
X Kassel: Schlosspark Wilhelmshohe - STARRED

DETLEV:
Bavaria: Noerdlingen, Bamberg (n of Nurnberg)
Near Kiel:
Lüneburger Heide (se of Hamburg)
Harz (mountains?)
Teutoburger Wald (northwest Schleswig-Holstein)
? Weserbergland

GAIL?? - in the north:
Ahrensburg (castle, wooden floor) (Hamburg)
Barlach Museum (Hamburg)
Ratzeburg (south of Lübeck, on little island next to Eger)

ELSJE:
Rohbach - ivory
falconry
Baden Baden
wood-carving
near Heidelburg (sw Germany):
Freudenstadt: Stadtkirche
Worme: domes (Romanesque)
Erbach: Grafl. Sammbingen + crafts
Speyer: Kaiserdom
Burgenstrasse: Neckar Valley between Rothenburg & Heidelburg

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AREAS & ROADS:
- Grimm's Fairy Tale Road: Hanau to Bremen
- Central West - Cologne, Bonn: Mosel River (wines)
- Central West - Dusseldorf "Paris of Germany"
- Rhine River: Cologne --> Mainz --> Mosel; OR --> lower Rhine, Fr, Switz
- Romantic Road: Wurzberg on Main River --> Fussen in Alps

German towns unchanged (Fodor's 1991 Germany)
X Bad Wimpfen (n of Stuttgart - sw Germany)
X Bernkastel-Kues (sw of Koblenz - nw Germany)
(Freinsheim (nw of Heidelberg - central west Germany)
(Goslar (Grimms Road)
X Hameln (Grimms Road)
Lindau (south at Swiss border, or Grimms Road)
Passau + confluence of Inn & Danube Rivers
Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber

Alternative neighborhoods (Utne July/August 1989, page 32):
Hamburg: Hafenstrasse
Berlin: Kreuzberg
Amsterdam's inner city
Copenhagen: Christiana

Classic Car Center - Felbach near Stuttgart
Mercedes-Benz Museum
(Daimler-Chrysler)
Stuttgart

Expressionists - two major groups:
1- Die Brücke / The Bridge: Kirchner, Heckel, Nolde, Schmidt-Rotluff.
2- Der Blaue Reiter / The Blue Knight: Marc, Macke, Klee, Kandinsky.
Museums mainly in northwest Germany:
Hamburg: Kunsthalle
Bremen: Kunsthalle
Essen: Folkwang Museum
Bielefeld: Kunsthalle
Düsseldorf: Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen & Kunstmuseum
+ Seebüll, north of Hamburg on the Danish border: small museum devoted to Emil Nolde.
In Hamburg: stay at the cozy, centrally located little inexpensive Prem hotel.

Hamburg was Europe's richest city 1993
Brussels
Ile de France (Greater Paris)
Vienna
Stuttgart
Dusseldorf
Stockholm
Hanover
Greater London
Utrecht
Berlin
Lazio (Greater Rom)
Madrid
Greater Manchester
Lisbon

Fasnacht - Cologne - week: Weiberfasnacht (women's carnival).
Imst, Austria - men dance as women around town.
Basel, Switzerland - costumes and parades. - Monday AFTER Ash Weds.
Bamberg: Karl May Museum, Hainstrasse - writer about the American west.
Regensburg: Kramgasse (street) narrow and cobbled, with many crooks

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Merci Kaffee-Sahne (coffee and cream)
Niederegger IGN Marzipan [Lubeck]

Bamberg: Rauchbier - "smoky beer" (Bavaria)

36"15 Pêcheur = beer with ginseng, cardoman, kola, ?mango
Fischer Brewery, a French producer of specialty brews, is launching its "La Biere Amoureuse," 36/15 Pecheur, in markets around the United States. The beer's reputed aphrodisiac qualities come from extracts of 16 herbs and other plants such as ginseng, ginger and myrrh. [Bière D'Alsace]
The Fischer brewery was founded in 1821 in Strasbourg, in the Alsace region if France, and moved to Schiltigheim in 1854, apparently because of the good quality of water there. In 1922, they took over the neighbouring Adelshoffen brewery and became Groupe Pêcheur (the French translation of the German Fischer). Groupe Pêcheur was in turn taken over by Heineken in 1996. http://www.fischerbeverages.com
http://www.brasseriefischer.com/
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